Norwich
Fly Rod Line Ratings and Fly Line weights.
Fly rod line ratings. This topic seems
to confuse a lot of people. Some say a rod has an optimum loading point and
works best with this or that single weight of fly line. I can’t see how that can be possible?
Who decides on what the “optimum” line loading is? Which expert
caster from the many good casters in the World, should be used as the benchmark
for rating a rod's optimal loading? It is a daft notion isn't it?
Obviously when I rate a rod I rate it on my casting technique and what I feel is best for that rod. It does not follow that this may be to every casters taste, and this is why I am careful to give the reasons for the ratings on my rods.
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See my Perfomance Factor page for more information on my fly rod actions.
There are one or sometimes two numbers present on fly rods. (There is only one line number on the latest EV5 models.) My older series EV2 rods had two for example. A 9ft #6/7 worked perfectly well with two line sizes. The first number 6, refers to a double taper (not so popular these days) or a longer belly weight forward, i.e. a line with a belly (the level section excluding taper) of 36ft or more. This will load the rod comfortably and allow the line to be shot quite effortlessly to 100ft or more. The second number 7, refers to a std 30ft belly weight forward line. This too will comfortably allow the rod to cast that line a 100ft or more. This however does not mean that the rod will only work properly and load correctly with those lengths of line.
Remember that a proficient caster will always be able to aerialise more (or less) line with more competence than an average caster.
Norwich EV5 MODEL SINGLE HANDED FLY ROD LINE RATINGS
All my rods have sophisticated taper design that allows, with the correct technique, the rod to cast the full fly line or a very short length of line of a few feet plus the leader and still turn the leader over properly.
On EV5 rods with a single line rating below a 6, that number is the optimum line size when used with a double taper or standard 30ft belly weight forward fly line. As I have previously stated, a proficient caster will always be able to aerialise more (or less) line with more competence than an average caster. On rod models with a single line rating above a 7 or any model in the range with an A1 PF Rating - including EV3 v.4 Saltwater Fly Rods that number is the optimum line size when used with a double taper or longer belly weight forward fly line. As I have previously stated, a proficient caster will always be able to aerialise more (or less) line with more competence than an average caster. Keep the following example in mind when looking at line ratings. The original 1961 AFTMA line scale is based on the grain weight of the first 30ft of level belly (excluding front and back tapers) and this means that 30ft of any given line e.g. 30ft of #6 line is the same weight as approximately 36ft of #5 line or 24ft of #7 line. It follows then that an #8 rated rod will comfortably cast and load efficiently with 36ft (or more depending on the casters skill) of an # 7 line. Norwich SINGLE HANDED FLY ROD LINE RATING AND THE AFTMA NEW LINE SCALE The recently agreed fly line standard differs from the original 1961 standard. Because of the increased number of fly lines with different taper formation available to consumers, the old scale did not cover such lines efficiently. Lines such as the Wulff Triangle Taper line. have no level belly. They have a continuous taper from thick to thin, with a small level front section where the leader is attached. *The weight of a fly line in the new scale is now agreed to be the first 30ft of line INCLUDING the taper but EXCLUDING any level tip section. I recommend if purchasing one of these continuous taper type of lines that you use the lower of the aftma numbers on the rod as your guide to the line size . I.E. #6/7 rating. Use a Number 6 rated line. You can read more about this subject in this link to an interesting |
Gram & grain weights have been introduced for the first time recently for fly lines. On the one hand that is good, on the other not so good. Most savvy fly casters weigh their lines. Tournament caster since the 1920's consider a set of scales an essential part of their armoury. Reason being if they buy a new line or make up a new line they know what weight will load the rod. The problem with buying a new line is manufacturing variance in the weight of the line. Some lines are on the extreme of the tolerance at both the high and/or the low end. The line could be on the high side or on the low side of the weight tolerance allowed for that line number. It could even be mislabelled and be totally the wrong size. It makes sense to weigh a new line. Take note; If the line is weighed and you cut the new line at that weight, it does not follow that the length of the line, will be the same length as the original line you weighed that worked well with the rod. Weight of line is all that really matters .
Experience comes into play here. Good casters have a feel for what weight is "right" for the rod they are using. Weight is important and giving the weight in gram & grain weights was supposed to eliminate a lot of confusion for budding fly casters. Gram or grain weights are "only a guide" not a definitive standard. A floating fly line of a given line weight performs entirely differently from a sinking line of the same rating in the air.
The rod handles those different line densities and line diameters entirely differently and will thus load the rod entirely differently. The sinking line because it is thinner and more dense moves through the air so much faster. It has the same weight as the floating line - but because of the increased speed with which it travels through the air due to its reduced diameter and lower wind resistance, it will feel like it is loading the rod differently. It will feel as though that line is heavier. It isn't though. It is only moving faster, the feeling that the line is heavier is heightened by the increased line speed at the transition point were the line direction changes from the back cast to the forward cast, the momentum created at the turn over point from the faster travelling line loads the rod shaft more deeply.
I design my rods with advanced tapers and a dual line rating system. This ensures that my rods will perform properly in all casting spheres and cope with the variance produced by different line types or manufacturing AFTM tolerences. For guidence here is the AFTMA line ratings for fly lines. Line weights are calculated on the first 30ft of level belly on weight forward or double taper fly lines.
In the 1961 scale, the front or back taper or level tip section is not included when weighing and rating a line.*
AFTMA (1961) WEIGHT SCALE FOR STANDARD LEVEL BELLY WEIGHT FORWARD & DOUBLE TAPER TROUT & SALMON FLY LINES.
The weight scale is based on weight of the first 30ft of line excluding the front taper.
First column is the line weight AFTMA number. Followed by the weight of the line in Grains (Including the agreed manufacturing tolerance range)
Followed by the weight in Grams then Ounces.
1 imperial ounce, = 31.1035 grames
#3 |
100
+/- 6. |
6.48. |
0.228 |
#4
|
120
+/- 6. |
7.78. |
0.274 |
#5
|
140 +/- 6. |
9.07. |
0.32
|
#6 |
160
+/- 8. |
10.42. |
0.366 |
#7 |
185
+/- 8. |
11.99. |
0.422 |
#8 |
210
+/- 8. |
13.61. |
0.48 |
#9 |
240
+/- 10. |
15.55. |
0.55 |
#10 |
280
+/- 10. |
18.14. |
0.64 |
#11 |
330
+/- 12. |
21.38. |
0.75 |
#12 |
380
+/- 12. |
24.62. |
0.86 |
#13 |
450 |
NA |
NA |
#14 |
500 |
NA |
NA |
#15 |
550 |
NA |
NA |
For a novice starting out it is far more complicated these day than when I was teaching myself to cast. There were not the huge number of fly line types out there to get it wrong with! As far as I see, judging by the number of emails and phone calls that I get, a greater choice in fly lines has only added more confusion. No casting instructor can ever teach a novice and impart "experience" in a lesson. Good technique... yes. However there is no substitute for getting out there and practicing casting as much as possible with as many different rods and lines as possible - to gather experience and build up that almost intangible sense of "feel" for how a rod works with different lines.
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AFTMA SALMON SPEY LINE RATINGS
In 2004 changes were agreed on in the fly fishing tackle trade to try to rationalize the many categories salmon fly lines in an effort to avoid the confusion arising amongst consumers who where having trouble identifying suitable line types to match to their rods. I'm not sure it worked out as planned, as only the major manufacturers were asked to be part of the consultation. Smaller companies like my own were not included in the discussions where parameters were set on fly line weights and profiles..... See here for Simon Gawseworth's comment on the process.

Frankly the system is inadequate and complicates fly line choice even further for the consumer. Why are there no Skagit line ratings for instance? We are stuck with though it seems.... There is a multitude of different profiles and casting head lengths available to salmon anglers on the market these days. Continuous taper long and short belly spey type lines in floating and sinking versions have been introduced in a bewildering array of sizes and sink rates. Just which lines do you choose and be certain it will match and not be a waste of your money?
Just which lines do you choose and be certain it will match and not be a waste of your money?
Nice though it would be to have a sample of every line currently being sold. I don't have them. If I did I would be several thousands of pounds the poorer. I am not aligned to any fly line manufacturer. I do not endorse fly lines for commercial gain from any manufacturer. Nor do I sell fly lines.
I do however keep a good stock of lines that I have purchased, that I know from experience have the correct weights that correspond to the line number. All my lines have been accurately weighed, and have well designed tapers that will allow me to test my rods properly, and importantly, advise customers accordingly on the correct line selection.
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EV5 Fly Rods EV3 v.4 Saltwater Fly Rods
How To Order David Norwich Rod Warranty & Optional Rod Warranty Rod Building Components
Some notes on fly line ratings and how to get the best performance out of your Norwich Fly Rod
Custom Built Spinning, Lure & Bait rods
Rod Care Advice Carbon Fly Rods. The Facts and the Fallacies
The "Blog"- My occasional comments on Fly Fishing and rod making past and present
David Norwich Rod Making History There Be Giants!.......A Parable for Our Time..
links of interest to fly anglers
David Norwich.
Hillside Works, Fountainhall, Nr. Galashiels, Scottish Borders. TD1 2SU, SCOTLAND
TEL: 01578 760 310
e-mail: sales@davidnorwich.com
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